From DetailingWiki

Contents 1 Polishing (Paint Correction) 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Polish / Compound 1.3 Abrasive Abilities 1.4 Clear Coat Thickness 1.5 Light Reflection 1.5.1 Specular reflection 1.5.2 Diffuse reflection 1.6 Surface Preparation 1.7 Surface Evaluation 1.8 Paint Surface Inspection 1.9 Types of Polish 1.9.1 Diminishing Abrasives 1.9.2 Nanotechnology Polish 1.10 Polish Abrasive Abilities 1.11 Specific Paint types / Polish and Foam Pad Combinations 1.12 Information resource

Polishing (Paint Correction)

Introduction

A sound understanding of the proper technique and the correct process will produce excellent results even with a mediocre product. A quality product used without the proper surface preparation or application technique will never obtain a satisfactory result. Using the proper methodology (surface preparation, using a quality product, along with the correct application technique) will ensure an excellent result. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used.

Some methods described may be beyond the capabilities of the average detailer or enthusiast; in this case we strongly encourage the reader to consult a professional detailer or body shop concerning the matters discussed herein. The writer assumes no responsibility, expressed or implied, due to misuse or misinterpretation of the information or Methods used, or for any vehicle damage or injury that may occur due to the suggestions and information offered.

Polish / Compound

The most common abrasive used is silica, which is much, much harder than aluminium oxide; however, many formulators are also using aluminum oxide. Most good compounds and polishes contain diminishing abrasives and are a combination of both silica and aluminum oxide. Think of them as liquid sandpaper, they are formulated with a lubricant, solvents, water and abrasive 0.3 –0.4 micron minerals, all in an emulsion that diminishes with friction, buffered or cushioned in a lubricating oil film, usually in a semi-liquid paste.

Most quality compounds are a combination of both silica and aluminium oxide. Some very abrasive compound polishes don’t feel abrasive to the touch because the particles are formulated in a water-in-oil emulsion and are not released without friction-heat.

The paint film surface also requires occasional polishing to maintain a pristine paint film surface and to ensure that any accumulated microscopic contamination in the paint surface crevices does not cause paint staining and that this dirt is not sealed into the paint by the application of wax or sealant. The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layer (which contains the paints UVR protection) should be preserved as far as possible.

Abrasive Abilities

The abrasion or cutting ability of a polish on a 0-10 scale; least abrasive to most, a rating of 0 would constitute a functionally nonabrasive material (i.e. diatomaceous earth or Kaolin) a 10 rating would be 800 grit abrasive.

Clear Coat Thickness

Bear in mind that a clear coat has a thickness of 1.5 – 2.0 Mils, removing more that 0.3 mil of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure. As a point of reference two sheets of Saran wrap placed on top of each other measure 1.5Mil a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mils deep will usually require wet sanding and refinishing. Moderate to light polishing will remove approximately 0.025 Mil of paint. There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear cot and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection (these can be aesthetically masked by using a Glaze)

A combination of heat and friction is required to ‘level’ paint, which is simply the removal of paint to the lowest point of the paint defect. A finishing pad will not provide as much friction as a cutting foam pad, although they will both produce heat, whereas a wool pad creates mild heat but more friction than most foam pads.

Light Reflection

Specular reflection

The law of reflection [: the direction of incoming light, and the direction of outgoing light reflected make the same angle with respect to the surface normal, thus the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection] the perfect, mirror-like reflection of light from a surface, in which light from a single incoming direction is reflected into a single outgoing direction. The best example of specular reflection is seen when reflected from a flat level surface

Diffuse reflection

[: incoming light is reflected in a broad range of directions] the most familiar example of the distinction between specular and diffuse reflection would be glossy and matte paints. While both exhibit a combination of specular and diffuse reflection, matte paints has a higher proportion of diffuse reflection and glossy paints have a greater proportion of specular reflection.

If the surface is perfectly flat, light will be reflected to produce a mirror image of the subject. But if there are imperfections such as swirls, orange peel, or oxidation (dull opaque paint) light is refracted and the subject is distorted. Surface jetting (the so-called ‘wet-look’) is caused by refracted light that is scattered in many directions

Surface Preparation

Surface preparation is one of the most important steps when polishing to achieve a flawless finish Before you clay and after you wash the paint surface, you’ll need to remove the old paint protection and any oxidation first so you can get down to the bare paint where these contaminants have attached themselves. If you’ve never clayed your car before, chances are that there are contaminants being protected underneath your previous wax or sealant coat, that’s why you need to remove the old protection before you clay.

Using a harsh dish-washing detergent such as Dawn on a regular basis is not recommended as they tend to dissolve oils and can prematurely dry up rubber moulding and trim. I recommend using a d-limonene (citrus) based paintwork cleanser. (P21S Total Auto Wash) Once you remove the old paint protection then proceed to the paint surface preparation process; detailer’s clay and then chemical surface cleaner o deep clean the paint surface.

Surface Evaluation

Diagnosis is the key; not guesswork; always use the least abrasive product / foam pad combination before ‘stepping-up’ to something more aggressive. The most important first step in the process of paint surface detailing is diagnosing the paint surface; density of clear coat (hard or soft) or single stage paint, surface condition; ascertain the severity of the surface blemishes with an inspection light and the paint thickness available, measuring with a paint thickness gauge will dictate the choice and abrasiveness of polish / compound for correction or renovation level required or indeed possible. Assess the correction level working through the range of polishes from the lightest abrasive upwards until the desired level of correction is reached. Selecting the correct pad / polish combination for the vehicles paint / defects can take just as long as the paint correction process

Compounding, polishing and finishing are different polishing methods that do not necessarily have to be applied consecutively. The appropriate combination of polishing steps depends on colour and quality of the coating as well as on the required quality of the surface.

a) A safe solvent

b) Detailer’s Clay

c) A chemical / abrasive paint surface cleaner

d) An abrasive polish (highest grit number first)

e) If the surface has been etched use an abrasive polish and a polisher (Rotary or Random orbital)

f) The same rule applies to abrasive polishes and foam or wool pads – Always use the least abrasive first before ‘stepping–up’ to the next abrasive level. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material

After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning or polishing its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a wax or polymer protection be applied immediately. Surface preparation is one of the most important steps when polishing to achieve a flawless finish Orbital and dual-action polishers can be safely used by the weekend enthusiast, show car owner or professional detailer without fear of damaging the finish. If you're experienced in machine polishing (Flex or Porter Cable) a professional rotary polisher (Makita) will allow you to remove deeper scratches, swirls and paint defects. If you've been detailing your car by hand, consider stepping up to a machine polisher, you can not duplicate the finish obtained using a machine. When a silicon-free polish is used to eliminate surface scratches it works on the surface of paint using aluminium oxide spheres, suspended in water and hydrocarbons and a mechanical process to abrade the surface of the paint down to the level of the bottom of the scratch.

On the basis of least aggressive first; if the paint can be rectified by chemical means, this is a better solution than abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical solvent cleaner will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won't discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material it’s to be used on. After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately.

* What is grit? When talking about finishing paper (sandpaper) "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of finishing paper. The lower the grit the rougher the finishing paper and conversely, the higher the grit number the smoother the finishing paper. This makes sense if you imagine how small the particles on a 1000-grit finishing paper would need to be to fit into a 1 - inch square. Finishing paper is referred to by the size of its grit

Finishing paper (sandpaper) - works a lot like any other cutting tool, the particles on finishing papers are made up from a number of sharp edges that cut; the only real difference is that finishing papers, unlike your saw, can’t be sharpened Scratches are identified by the equivalent marks that would be made by finishing paper grit.

Polishes are also rated on a grit number - that is to say the scratches they will remove after using grit finishing paper (i.e. 2500 grit polish will remove the marks left after using 2500 grit finishing paper) Remember the flatter and more uniform you make the paint surface, the greater the light reflection (shine).

* Going through the grits - What does this mean?” No it’s not a reference to eating breakfast in Georgia! It’s a very similar idea to ‘Least aggressive first’ it refers to the process of using different grit finishing papers of progressively finer grit or foam / wool pads with progressively denser pads to get a smooth finish. By going through the grits each progressive piece of grit finishing paper or pad removes the scratches from that previously used. Always start with the least abrasive combination, i.e. a machine polish and the least aggressive foam / wool pad. If that combination doesn't remove the imperfections, using the same machine polish and change to a more aggressive pad, if the surface imperfections remain, then step-up the abrasive polish and use the least next level (abrasive)

1.Compounding - using an aggressive pad and compound/polish designed to quickly level the paint and remove the defects

2.Polishing- refining the finish by removing light defects (either light marring or damage instilled by the compounding process) levelling the surface and restoring gloss to the paint.

3.Finishing - by using a lightly abrasive pad and a finishing polish, helps refine the paint, removing any trace damage from the polishing stage.

4.Burnishing (Finessing) - an optional step after finishing, done with a non-abrasive ultra soft pad and an ultra fine finishing polish. For the removal of any microscopic pad abrasion, which also reduces the chance of holograms and may increase the gloss of the paint further

* Compounding, Polishing an Finishing; are different polishing methods that do not necessarily have to be applied consecutively. The appropriate combination of polishing steps depends on colour and quality of the paint surface as well as on the required finish quality required / possible of the surface.

Never mix polishes on a foam / wool pad and never use a pad that been used for compounding for polishing unless it’s been washed as there may be compound polish residue that will be too aggressive for polishing

Surface Inspection - always carry out an isopropyl alcohol (IPA) wipe down after compounding or polishing to ensure a blemish free paint surface and to ensure there are no ‘fillers’ masking the finish

• Priming / Seasoning a foam pad -

If you were to apply polish to a body panel, and then place a pad on the surface and turn the machine on, it would be very difficult to control. This is due to most of the pad being "dry". To prime (or season) a pad, lightly mist it with distilled water, slightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad. After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from heat build-up (seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh CCS pad on your machine you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing.

Polishes and compounds appear to work better when the foam pad is ‘primed’ a very slightly distilled water dampened foam, not too wet otherwise it can effect the cutting ability or dilute the product; do not use a quick detailer (QD) as most are formulated with either a wax or a polymer; however they are not easily adaptable to a spray formula. To be efficient they need to be emulsified to work as a spray, to facilitate this they need to use an emulsion of silicone oils and water. The wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives; silicon-based products can also have a negative effect on the surface / polish lubrication oils used causing surface smearing. Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the polish using the foam pad with the machine off. This coats the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or hazing the finish, then place the foam pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any portion of the foam pad dry as this will produce hazing.

Most polishes are formulated by emulsifying a powdered abrasive in a carrier system (oil / solvent) the right amount of heat is vital to allow the polish / compound abrasives to spread evenly via the carrier system. Once the abrasives are evenly spread you should apply pressure to ensure an even contact between the surface and the abrasive. Once the solvents have evaporated (from friction induced heat) after the abrasives have been spread, a combination of friction, and pressure enable the abrasives to break-down, allowing the polish / compound to provide a consistent abrasive ability.

• The temperature of a paint surface should be monitored for three things when using a high-speed polisher-

1. Heat - once the outgas process is complete automotive coatings (paint) becomes a semi-solid permeable membrane, Being a polymer (plastic) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract to follow temperature fluctuations (elongation) friction heat can cause a rapid temperature rise (i.e. initial surface temp 80oF, heat attained with a cutting foam pad at 1,100 RPM for approx. ten seconds is approx. 104oF) the paint temperature can be checked by utilizing an instant read-out infra-red ‘gun’ thermometer, paint surface ‘spot’ temperature should be limited to 110 oF In accordance with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) a temperature of 115oF will cause the urethane clear coat to soften and the foam pad will cause scratching that is forced deep into the clear coat. Heat also causes the metal to expand, which in turn will cause the paint to move with it, thereby becoming less dense (thinner) Also be aware that plastics have a different thermal rating and will be negatively effected by applied heat very rapidly.

2. Thickness- this can be checked with a paint thickness gauge (Note- the temperature of the surface will effect the readings obtained (see above)) For these reasons all car manufacturers now specify that the paint thickness be measured in 0.1mil, or 1/1000th of an inch before and after any wet sanding or buffing. If only 0.4 mils of clear coat have been removed the integrity of the clear coat may have been compromised. Moderate to light polishing will remove approximately 0.025 Mil of paint. The following are the maximum allowable clear coat reductions the major USA car manufacturers will allow: Chrysler – 0.5 mils; Ford – 0.3 mils; GM – 0.5 mils.

3. Strike-through (burning through clear coat) begins as a small circular ‘halo’ where the clear has begun to delaminate from the basecoat, as heat is generated the halo becomes larger and the area becomes area opaque compared to surrounding paint surface

Dependant upon how serious the paint surface defects are you may need a compound or a polish. Both come in varied grades of aggressive micro-abrasives, some are formulated with diminishing abrasives that require friction heat, breaking down further and further (heat and time dependant) some will burnish the paint surface LSP ready, while some will require a lesser abrasive foam pad and / or polish to finish the process.

* Difference between Diminishing and Standard Abrasive Polishes - While the majority of polishes on the market use a form of diminishing abrasive , which you polish to a ‘haze’ (when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze) the diminishing polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you will re-introduce surface marring. Some products use standard cutting abrasive that provides a constant cutting action throughout the polishing process.

Unlike diminishing abrasives, which require time and friction to enable the abrasives to 'break-down to obtain the best possible finish (and avoid holograms) standard abrasive polishes should be used with a cutting foam or wool pad to remove surface defect, and then switch to a polishing pad to finish. Polish until he defects are removed (1200 – 1500 RPM) but do not allow the polish to completely dry (as this will also produce holograms)

* Wipe-down after Polishing/ Compounding:

This allows you to inspect the surface to determine if the surface is defect free or if further work is required. When polishing or compounding to remove fine swirls or holograms, it's easy for residues to settle in the swirls, hiding the true paint finish. Wiping the finish with a Micro fibre cloth you may feel that the swirls have been removed, only to have them reappear when applying the final wax or sealant. After polishing a section, mist and wipe to fully remove residues and reveal the true paint finish.

1.Polymer sealants will not form a proper monocular bond with a paint surface if there are any oils present and it will affect durability.

2.Silicone will cause surface smearing and will affect durability

a)Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) - fill a fine misting spray bottle with a 8:1 ratio of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / distilled water solution spray the paint surface, leave it to dwell for 30-45 seconds, agitate before wiping the paint surface with a clean, dry 100% cotton towel

b)Menzerna Top Inspection (PP95) – use to inspect your work, use this water-based cleaner that removes dust left by compounding and any lubricating oils so you can see the real results of your work. There are no silicones or fillers, just gentle cleaning agents to uncover the real condition of your vehicle’s paint.

c) Hi-Temp's Prep Wash - to prepare a paint surface for polishing, compounding, wax and / or polymer sealant application (especially if changing from a wax to a polymer product) this is a water-based paint cleaner designed to remove all traces of silicone, oil, and buffing residue from any exterior paint surface

d) DuPont PrepSol II™ or Final-Klean - spray onto a 100% cotton or a micro fibre towel and clean the surface, DuPont now also sells the Sonatra Line, which are essentially wipes/towels, pre-moistened with either Prep-Sol or Final-Klean, ideal for all high tech wiping applications, excellent in use both wet and dry with high absorbent capacity - http://www.sauldharrison.com/?gclid=CMXt4dmB3JYCFQWJ1QodMjJi2g

e) Prep-All is a very similar product to PrepSol and is more widely available

Paint Surface Inspection

Inspect your work under full sunlight or purpose-made paint inspection lamps; holograms, fine marring hooks, etc. are very difficult to see under man made light. There's nothing more frustrating than having to strip off your LSP and re-do.

1.Brinkmann REI - most LED’s merely glow, but Rebel's highly efficient, finely focused lens casts a 40-ft. beam of far-reaching light. Fish-eye-shaped lens focuses the light from the single white LED bulb into a bright, consistent beam; no dark spot in the beam's centre, the LED bulb is nearly indestructible and draws very little power, greatly extending battery life; runs on two AA batteries, included, a tough ABS plastic is armoured with thick, no-slip rubber grips Push-button on/off switch inset in the back cap REI - http://www.rei.com/product/47576705.htm

2.3M Sun Gun™ Colour Matching Light - can be used throughout the refinish process, the percentage of light vs. natural day light is CRI (Colour Rendering Index) = 99.35%: identify paint defects such as swirl marks, burn through, sand scratches, etc., which will reduce the chance of costly re-work- TCP Global - http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/3msungun.aspx or Autobarn - http://www.autobarn.net/bkm800-2200.html

3.Infratech CM5300 – Colour Matcher - this light is a great alternative to the 3M Sun Gun. Runs on mains electricity not batteries, a must have tool and it’s also an inexpensive investment. High Colour Temperature 5300K Duplicates Natural sunlight under any condition, high power 70 Watts, large coverage area, hand held lightweight, momentary "On/Off" switch, identify pre-or-post paint correction / renovation defects, eliminate re-doing or call-backs – http//:www.infratech-usa.com/

5.Digital Microscope - this enables you to analyze and capture paint surface defects, the unit’s interchangeable lenses provide The ProScope™ with tremendous versatility. With the 0-10X lens, it becomes a high-quality video camera. Magnification can be increased to a startling 200X power in a matter of seconds (50x seems to be a good magnification for detailing work) the lens mount is an industry-standard C-Mount that will accept third-party lenses. ProScope HR™ CSI Science Level 1, includes- 1/0-10x Lens, 1/50x Lens, 1/Carrying Case - http://www.proscopehr.com/buy.html

* Painter’s Tape (Masking Tape): Use to mask around windows, badges, vinyl or rubber trim, can also be used to mask panel edges to avoid thinning the paint surface

3M's Scotch® Safe-Release TM Painters' Masking Tape, this tape removes cleanly from a paint film or glass surface without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. It is a medium adhesion tape with a flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces.

*Foam pad type Pros & Cons –

Wool:

Pro -faster cutting generates less heat and therefore leaves the surface cooler.

Con- can leave micro marring (buffer trails)

Foam:

Pro - light to moderate cutting ability (dependant open polish used) and imparts a smooth finish ready for application of last step product (LSP)

Con – it heats paint faster but produces a more refined finish to the paint surface with no micro scratches

* The abrading capability of any polish can be changed by-

a) Application method (i.e. machine Random Orbital Polisher, High Speed Rotary or hand application)

b) Speed and / or pressure used

c) Using water on a foam pad will increase it abrasion ability but will interfere with the buffers that encapsulate the abrasives producing less friction heat, which may negatively hinder the diminishing abrasives. The best compromise is a very slightly water dampened pad (do not use a quick detailer (QD) as the wax will reduce the friction heat, negatively impacting the diminishing abrasives. Water will also minimize dusting when using a machine buffer (random orbital or rotary)

d) Type of foam / wool composition (different compositions and / or densities have a differing abrading ability)

1. Abrading ability (foam pad)- select matching foam pads abrading ability; pores per inch(PPI) to suit the product used yellow, cutting-1, orange cutting/polishing -2, white polishing-3 The lower the number the less abrasive ability, colours are Lake County’s foam

2. Machine linier speed - the speed at which the foam pad travels across a paint surface is also important, too fast or slow won’t allow the micro-abrasive to ‘beak down’, Machine linier speed (MLS) buffer or rotary machine movement shown as inches per second, apply polish at a machine linear speed (MLS) of approximately 0.5 - 1.5 (Random Orbital Buffer) 1.5 to 2.0-inch per second (Rotary)

3. Machine speed (Porter-Cable) - for polishing # 4 – 5.5, the vibrations that are generated at higher speeds are unacceptable for most people, and may cause the Velcro™ to become delaminated. To obtain the best results when polishing stubborn defects with a random orbital buffer is to use a 3-inch backing plate and a 4-inch foam pad.

3a. Machine speed (High Speed Rotary) – use a sliding scale of 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm; linear speed should be 2 – 3 feet per second (FPS) 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects

4. Machine pressure- apply enough pressure (approx 15 pounds force; 20 pounds force will stall a random orbital buffer motor) a foam pads should be compressed approx 50%) so that the pad still oscillates at full speed, but by applying any more the machine begins to stall, and then back off the pressure very slightly. With a High Speed Rotary apply only sufficient pressure to ensure the foam pads cutting edge has an even contact with the paint surface

5. Repeat polishing- it is normal to polish a surface and to renew the polish three or more times (unless the defects are minor). When using a machine polish that contains diminishing abrasives, once the abrasives reach a certain size they will no longer abrade (cut) the surface, if on further inspection the surface still has some defects, you will need to apply fresh polish.

6. Never mix polishes on a foam/ wool pad and never use a pad that been used for compounding for polishing unless it’s been washed.

7. Product Saturation – it is very important to keep polish build-up to a minimum on the pad. If polish / compound is repeatedly applied the oils / solvents will saturate the foam / wool, changing its composition thereby altering its abrasive abilities.

8. Clean (or replace) you pads frequently – a clean or fresh pad will restore the intended abrasive ability, were as a saturated foam pads abrasive ability will decrease (note dried or caked on polish will increase risk of surface scratches) clean often with a soft fairly stiff brush or pad spur (Duospur).

9. Paint System Thickness- most modern vehicle paint film systems comprise; Primer coat of 2Mils, Colour coat of 1-2Mils, Clear coat 2-3Mils. Removing more that 0.5 mil 0.0005") of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure. As a point of reference two sheets of Saran wrap placed on top of each other measure 1.5Mil (0.0015") a surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.004" deep will usually require wet sanding and refinishing. There comes a point when you must judge wither removing a scratch will compromise the clear coat and if so you’ll have to ‘live’ with the imperfection

Using a Sliding Scale (Rotary) 600-900-1200 rpm- commence by spreading the product and then start polishing by setting the speed to 600 rpm, then adjust to 900rpm culminating at 1200rpm then descend to 900rpm and finish at 600rpm; linear speed should be 2 – 3 inch per second (IPS) 1200 rpm is where most of the paint surface defects will be removed. There probably will be some polishing defects (holograms, etc) by descending the sliding scale (1200-900-600rpm) you will remove these and any other minor defects (See also Compounding / Polishing)

Types of Polish

Diminishing Abrasives

A polishing compound that uses larger particles that are softer than non-diminishing abrasives, and starts to break down i.e. becoming smaller and smaller after a few minutes of polishing, when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze the polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. These types of abrasives can often be used as a "single step" compound that does some correction and finishes (breakdown) fine enough to be ready for LSP.

Nanotechnology Polish

This type of polish utilizes much smaller particles that are hardened and undergo an insignificant reduction in size during the polishing process. Nano Polishes utilize the sheer number of particles in conjunction with the properties of the polishing pad to control the amount of cut and are usually used to finesse the paint surface.

Polish Abrasive Abilities

The abrasion or cutting ability of a polish on a 0-10 scale (least abrasive to most, a rating of 0 would constitute a functionally nonabrasive material (i.e. Diatomaceous earth ) a 10 rating would be a 800 grit abrasive

1. Polish (compound) levels heavy defects. A compound polish removes severe paint flaws and wet sanding marks with suspended abrasives in a mix of oils/solvents/water, which also provides the pad with a lubricant to work it across the paint surface. This will leave behind surface marring or haze. 8/10

2. Polish I- levels moderate to heavy defects. This polish is again a mixture of abrasives and oils/solvents/water which also provides the pad with a lubricant to work it across the paint surface. This will remove the surface marring or hazed/swirled paint surface back to basically full depth of clarity and shine. 7/10

3. Polish II- levels light to moderate defects 6/10

4. Polish III- levels light defects and removes hazing 5/10

5. Polish VI (Fine) - finishing has minor corrective ability and burnishes paint to high gloss 3/10

6. Glaze - minor abrasives (Kaolin or Dimescous Earth) usually with oils to fill and add warmth/depth 2/10 Menzerna polishes were designed to remove very fine (3000 grit) swirls from the new, super-hard, ceramic clear coats. These are the BASF clear coats being used on the Maybach and 2004-5 Rolls Royce Phantom and PPG's CeramiClear which is being used on the 2005 Mercedes C-Class, they can also be used on conventional clear coats.

Ceramiclear and other hard clear coats (i.e. Audi, Corvette, BMW, VW, etc) and most other paint systems I would recommend a two level foam pad / polish system to really bring out the paint. Start with PO 106ff and an LC Orange foam pad and follow with white foam. Menzerna polishes will not finish up dry, but will always have a hazy film to them.

Specific Paint types / Polish and Foam Pad Combinations

a) Dark or Soft Paint Finishes - PO 85 RD 3.01 Super Intensive Polish (F) black or dark coloured paint surfaces, and 'soft' paint - 1200 RPM -White primary (softer less dense foam (70 PPI) with a light abrasive cutting action ) LC CCS foam pad followed by a secondary Blue finishing (very soft 100 PPI) LC CCS foam pad - 1100 RPM

b) Light / Medium Paint Correction - Power Finish (PO203S) and PO 85 D3.01 polishes (LC White / LC Blue foam pads 1000 RPM) should be all you need leaves a ready to seal finish.

c) Paint Renovation - PO S34A Power Gloss (LC Purple wool pad 1500 – 1800 RPM) it has a short work time slow cut but tends to ‘dust’

d) Alternative polishes - 3M™ Perfect-It™ 3000 Extra Cut Rubbing Compound, 06060 / 3000 Ultrafina™ SE (US) 06068 / Ultrafina SE (UK) 50383 / 3M50388 - 3M50388 Ultrafina High Gloss Polishing Pad - Velcro Backed. 6- inch (150mm)

Information resource

• WikiPedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

• Automotive Detailing Inside & Out, A Knowledge Base for the Perfectionist– by Jon Miller

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© All original material in this article is copyright, unless otherwise stated, and may be copied and distributed for non-commercial purposes only as long as the source of the material is stated and a reference to © TOGWT ™ is included